"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thouroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming - "WOW - What a Ride!" ~ Hunter S. Thompson

Wednesday, June 20, 2012  (Day 14)
Twin Bridges Bike Camp, Twin Bridges,  MT
Miles:  79  MPH:  13  Max:  37  Total:  843

Good Morning Montana!

Biked through a cattle herd today!! Just normal life in Montana!!

New Friends!

It was a cold morning ride!

Woke to frost covered grass with temps in the 20's.  Only 2 brave tent campers last night and their tents were white with frost.  Total peace and tranquility surrounded the first hour of our ride.   Not a single car passed and the only sounds were the birds chirping.  Many deer and cattle stared from the roadside.  Then . . . the dreaded sign -- "Truck Chain Up Area!!"  We climbed Big Hole pass at 7360 feet high.  Then a cruel down hill only to have to climb again to Badger Pass at 6,760 feet high.  But then it was downhill for the next glorious 30 miles!  Awesome!!  The landscape is immense.  Not sure it can be captured in a photo -- it's just huge with mountains all around.

Day's View!

We met two riders biking the Continental Divide from Canada to Mexico.  Took photos together like we were old friends, exchanged Blogs and said good-bye as their route was more off road biking!

Rob rode with us most of the day.  A bull walking along the road stared at us......then more cattle roamed freely on the road.  Gingerly we slowly biked down the center white line.  I was saying things like, "Hi cows!  I'm from Lancaster, PA.  We have cows there also!  We love cows!!!"  A van stopped and called to us, "They're herding cattle up the road.  Just wanted to let you know."  We smiled and said, "thanks."  As she pulled away we looked at each other and said, "What the heck is that suppose to mean?"  Then a sea of black covered the roadway as hundreds of cows and their babies circled the road.  Cattle were charging down the road and we were in the middle!  OMG!  Scared to death!!!  It was like a movie with cowboys on horseback with rope in hand moving the herd!


Took a much needed coffee stop at the "Bad Ass Coffee Cafe" in Dillon, a cute college town.  A homemade white chocolate and cranberry scone made a great reward for the day's climbs!

In Twin Bridges, we stayed at the Free Biker's Camp!  A closed pavilion, grass for tents, shower, toilet, grill, hose to clean bikes, and a bike stand!!!  Wow!!  Wonderful place!  We grilled hotdogs for a great dinner!

Met a Dutchman biker there.  In 2008 he and his wife set off from Astoria, Oregon to bike across the US.  After crossing Lolo Pass, on the way to Missoula, his wife suffered a heart attack and died.  He has returned this year, flew into Denver, Colorado and is making his way back to light a candle.  At 73 he can't make the climbs so he is hitchhiking the hills!  Very touched by his story.....

Great day today!!
xo

"To get through the hardest journey we need take only one step at a time, but we must keep on stepping."

Tuesday, June 19, 2012  (Day 13)
Jackson Hot Springs and Resort, Jackson, MT
Miles:  60   MPH:  11  Max:  34  Total: 764

Everywhere signs declare "Historic Marker" - everything is all Lewis and Clark.  Lewis and Clark encountered a thunderstorm here, L&C were snowed in here for months, L&C ran into strong winds here and were forced to turn back.  Well, L&C you don't have anything over us.  Today we had snow, hail, and sleet as we crossed 2 mountain passes.  The only thing we didn't do is fight the Indians!!

A new morning

Exhausted!!

Woke to near freezing temps, but we were toasty in our warm cabin.  Loved the Sula County Store.  I ran into the BFFs this morning....they were leaving separately for the day's ride -- I'm not that brave.  I over heard Whitney talking to her mom telling her that she needed breakfast while her friend wanted an early start.  Whitney said, "Mom I am not a Princess -- my body is telling me that it needs nourishment!!"  haha!!  Not sure a pampered princess would be biking across the US!!

My butt hurt from the ride's start - not a good sign!  We didn't get very far and Jack's derailer jammed...  A quick roadside adjustment fixed it.  I pulled the trailer today to give Jack a break.  The rough road and added friction was killing me!  I couldn't get my speed above 10 mph on the flat!  Then we began the first climb to Lost Trail Pass.  I was having trouble catching my breath and even in my lowest gear difficulty turning the pedal crank.  Slowly up the mountain we zig-zagged the switch back roads.  Reaching the summit, it began to snow!  The EMPTY visitor center had a fresh hot pot of coffee brewing with a sign, "Free Coffee" and the fireplace was lit!  It must have been an angel!  Although it was freezing, I was saturated with sweat so I hung my socks, hat, gloves, jacket, middle layer shirt near the fire to dry while sipping hot coffee for about an hour.  Also needed a few happy pills (Advil)!!

Both Rob and Whitney arrived, so all together we turned off Highway 93 and headed East to Chief Joseph Pass, our highest elevation yet at 7,241 feet!!  Sleet and hail pelted us, a snow squall showered the mountain, and snow piles were still on the roadside!  Montana's summer hasn't yet started!

Briefly, we stopped at the Big Hole National Battlefield Visitor Center in Wisdom, Montana - just love these visitor centers!  It was more of a museum with displays and movies -- no free coffee!

We spotted our first big game - an elk family!  Also saw a momma deer with 2 teeny tiny babies.

Riding for hours, we only saw a few cars, no street signs, only a few homes and supposedly we were on a highway!!  Now we were surrounded by the Bitterroot and Pioneer Mountains as we rode in the "Big Hole Valley."

Temps are to be in the 20s tonight so we opted again for a cabin.  The Jackson Hot Springs resort has natural hot springs to soak our sore muscles!  Tomorrow again 2 more mountain passes!  Loving the adventure!

Jack, our new friend, Rob, and me at dinner

Jackson Hot Springs!

"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." ~ Heinz Stucke Bicycle touring for 49 years and still going!

Monday, June 18, 2012  (Day 12)
Sula Country Store Campground, Hwy 93, Sula, MT

Beautiful Stevensville Hotel

Miles:  58  MPH:  11  Max:  22  Total:  704

Wow!  Woke to coffee brewing at 5am -- I love you Stevensville Hotel!  Wonderful night sleep --pillow top mattress, 4 fluffy pillows, soft cozy sheets, ceiling fan and my own bathroom!!  I let Jack sleep in.  We wanted to stop in at the Hamelton Bike store, about 25 miles away, and they didn't open till 9am so no rush.

Today we headed south on US 93 through the Bitterroot Vally.  A paved bike trail ran parallel to the highway for the first 25 miles.  We spotted a few baby deer near the trail, but no other wild life yet -- can't wait to see a moose or a bear :-)

Again the bike shop was most helpful.  Got new recommendations for the next day's lodging.  Last evening, Rob who we have now met up with at several stops also stayed at the Stevensville Hotel.  We knew he was having bike problems and would probably also stop at the bike store, so we left a message for him with our new plan.  It's like the pony express here -- leaving messages from town to town!!

The landscape is dramatically different since entering Montana.  No longer are we riding through the mountains, rather they are seen, snow covered, at a distance to our right and in front of us.

All day storm clouds hung over the mountains and behind us.  We had hoped to outrun the coming rain.

As we rode the towns became smaller and smaller.  We began  in Stevensville, population 1,500, then reached Victor, population 900, then Darby- where we stocked up on groceries- population700 and finally our destination Sula, population 50!  Thunder and rain arrived just as we did.

We're dry and happy in an adorable log cabin at the Sula Country Store and Campground.  Next door are two very cute female (in their 20's or so) BFF's having the time of their lives also biking cross country! 

Our Castle for the evening!

Tomorrow we have 2 big mountain passes to cross -- Lost Trail Pass at 7,014 feet high and Chief Joseph Pass at 7,241 feet.  Can't wait to see what the day brings!!

Gotta go -- the Hot Tub is calling me!!

xo

"Even if you stumble, you're still moving forward."

Sunday, June 17, 2012 (Day 11)
Stevensville Hotel, Stevensville, MT
Miles:  67  MPH:  10  Max:  31  Total:  646

Happy Father's Day!

Rough day today!!  Thunder and pouring rain woke us early!  Ugh!!  Another soggy morning at a campground!  The tent was muddy, covered with pine needles and soaked.  Not wanting to pack it up that way, we dragged it to the bathroom -- they were heated, so we hung it over the stalls hoping it would dry.  It was a great way to meet fellow campers...."Hi, please let me move my tent out of the way while you use the toilet, oh, my name is Bonnie, where are you headed?"  No one seemed to mind too much.  I think most folks felt sorry for us!!!

As we began our ride the trunks of the huge pine trees along the roadside were eye level.  Fog hung at the top of the trees.  Soon the tree tops were eye level and eventually we were above the tree line.  We read a sign that said when Lewis and Clark first made it to the summit of Lolo Pass they encountered thunder, rain, and hail!  Ha-ha, us too!!  Didn't know I could have been an explorer!

So in the rain, we set off to finish our climb to the summit.  The first 5 miles were easy and we felt confident.....Then the road got steeper and our MPH slowed, then steeper and we slowed, then steeper and we used all our gears, and slowed and slowed and slowed.  We ended up walking the last 3 miles pushing our bikes and gear and trailer uphill.  We're getting good at this hike and bike stuff!

Wonderful Visitor Center at the summit of our climb - it was a tiny piece of heaven!

Montana Landscape - We crossed over those mountains!!

Exhausted, wet, and a bit down we had made it to the top!  Dripping wet, we approached the visitor center and received a very friendly welcome.  The rangers lit the fire place and we dried our wet things.  We drank coffee and hoped the rain would slow.  As we left the visitor center, 5 things happened....We entered Montana, our 4th state, we crossed  the continental divide, we entered a new time zone (lost an hour), a bit of blue sky appeared amid the thick white cloud cover, and the grade of the road turned downhill.  It was 12:00 and we had only covered 13 miles!!

We flew down hill for the next 30 miles or so to the honky tonk town of Lola, Montana.  Then we turned South onto a bike path for the next 15 miles.  We would have had a great tail wind if we were still riding East, instead the wind blew across us knocking us off our bikes -- twice I fell!!

They are calling for storms again tonight, so we couldn't face another soggy wake up.  After biking about 67 miles we are at a beautiful B&B in Stevensville, Montana -- owned by the town's mayor!  We are again pampering ourselves!   Coffee will be brewing at 5am --- heaven!

xo

"God writes the gospel not in the Bible alone, but on trees and flowers and clouds and stars." ~ Author Unknown

Saturday, June 16, 2012 (Day 10)
Lochsa Lodge, Powell, ID
Miles:  69  MPH:  11  Max:  21  Total:  579

We made it!!

Woke up to a chilly 42 degrees.  Anxious to get started with the day's climb, I took off in front of Jack.  Again today's directions had only 1 turn, "Turn East on Rt 12 and pedal hard for 66 miles.  I turned the wrong way!! Opps!   I'm so happy Jack is navigating!

Rugged mountain peaks covered with stands of fir, pine, and popular trees towered above us as we road along the thundering white water rapids of the Clearwater River.  The climb was gradual and not nearly as hard as we had feared.

Dozens of waterfalls pooled down the mountain side and splashed nearby the road.  Just Breathtaking!

We passed one west bound cyclist and dozens of friendly motor cyclists -- they are like kindred cousins!  Often the motor cyclists would pull next to us and chat.  One guy was so excited to share some photos he just took.  He stopped to photograph one of the nearby falls and had climbed down onto the rocks for a better view.  There he saw a bear den and several bones nearby!!  I wouldn't let Jack take a picture instead pedaled like crazy, scared Momma Bear might be near-by!

Lunch was PB&J roadside as we didn't pass a single anything or any place the entire day!  As the day wore on, the mountain peaks seemed to shrink -- we were gaining on them!  Snow covered a few peaks.  Our destination the Locha Lodge - a beautiful resort in the middle of the National Forest.  There we enjoyed an awesome early dinner before heading to the Powell Ranger Station and campground in the National Forest -- very beautiful!

We finish the climb to Lolo Pass tomorrow!  66 miles down, 13 to go!

Wow!  Biking over the Rockies -- Life is Good -- real Good!

Had to use a pay phone to call home!  Still no cell service!!

Camping in the beautiful National Forest

Homesick but so so happy that I get to do this!

"Sometimes good things fall apart so better things can fall together." ~ Marilyn Monroe

Friday, June, 15 2012  (Day 9)
Three Rivers Campground, Kooskia, ID
Miles:  57  MPH:  11.7  Max:  30  Total:  510

Getting started on another beautiful day

Clearwater River Canyon

Another beautiful day!  Rejuvenated from our night in luxury, we said good-bye to new friends (last night two more cyclists arrived at the hotel!!) and again went East on Route 12.  All day we traversed the winding Clearwater River Canyon.  Our route followed in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark.  It was in 1803 that President Jefferson commissioned Meriwether Lewis and William Clark to find the Northwest Passage, the link between the Missouri River and the Columbia River through the unexplored Rocky Mountains.  I actually brought along an audio book about Lewis and Clark but too much adrenaline in the evenings to relax with a book!!  I've been reading the signs along the road though!!

Logging Truck

Just like yesterday, we pedaled through a postcard.  Saw a deer run along the highway,  lots of fishermen, logging trucks, and dozens of waterfalls.  Rt 12 is just a spectacular road.  Across the river, there were a few homes -- no roads but homes.  Folks that live there have a personal cable car from the highway to their home that zips them across the whitecaps on the Clearwater River.  We even road through an Indian Reservation!!  Not really a big deal since we didn't even know we were until we saw the sign, "Now Leaving the Nez Perce Indiana Reservation!!"  Easily we rode the short 57 miles and arrived at Three Rivers Motel and Campground.  We're camping -- our 7th night now camping (and my friends said I couldn't do it!!) The campground is a bit run down, but we like it....besides its the only spot for miles (like 66 miles!!)  The town's sign read, "Lowell, population 34 and the 34 was crossed out and 33 written in!! haha!  All 33 residents hang out at the Three Rivers Motel!  The Motel's bar scene is hopping!

My bike is sooooooo happy!

Today's jewel -- The bakery in Kamiah, a small town we passed through.  We bought a loft of honey whole wheat bread, a loft of olive and basil bread, and homemade granola -- our reserves for crossing the Rockies!

We cut out about 250 miles when we rerouted through Washington toward Lewiston and Clarkston.  We have loved every inch of this route and feel it was meant to be.  We are behind in where we thought we would be total miles, but ahead of schedule by 2 days for reaching the Three Rivers Motel!  We'll shorten our days as we pedal the mountains getting to Yellowstone and take more time to enjoy the awesome scenery.  We should be right on our original  target when we reach Yellowstone!!!

Tomorrow we climb 66 miles uphill!  But that's not the worse part!  We'll still have another 13 miles to the summit and they save the steepest grade for last!  We're ready!  :-)

Missing Home!!  Crazy Idaho and Washington don't have ATT cell service so we haven't been able to talk to home much!!  xo

Three Rivers Pool

♪♪♪ "Your glory shines before our eyes...the more we see, the more we love You." ♪♪♪ ~ Matt Redman

Thursday, June 14, 2012 (Day 8)
Best Western, Orofino, ID
Miles:  57  MPH:  11  Max:  22.5  Total:  453



Idaho welcomed us!! 

Today's directions....Make a left on Rt 12 and continue!!!

Morning at Chief Timothy Campsite

It was like riding through a post card all day!  We rode along the Clear Water River with towering mountains all around.  First the mountains were rocky and brown and then they turned green covered with a lush pine forest.  Every view could be on a post card.

The riding was easy (compared to yesterday :-).  Weather has been perfect the past few days (thank-you Joe!)  We got to our destination early and headed for the library to catch up with our blog, emails, facebook-----all the home news :-)

Stopped for ice-cream and I asked what was the local favorite.  Huckleberry Heaven - made locally!!  Yep, it was heaven!

The Gorgeous Clear Water River

We had planned to stay at a campground, but it didn't look very nice.  Jack convinced me on a hotel, so here we are in luxury!

We will climb over the Rockies this week-end!  We may not have many services to post to the blog, so we'll catch up when we can! In just a week, John will meet up with us in Yellowstone!

 Beautiful Biking Day!

I checked our donations today!  Wow!!  We are at 65% of our goal with our friends and family donating $3,225 to the Special Olympics.  Hooray!!!  Thank-you.  We are amazed by your generosity.  We are sorry that thank-you notes may be slow coming while we are on the road......but please know that your donation inspires us each moment of our amazing ride!  xo

Missing Home!!

Post card views all day!